Public Spa / Mahnaz Badihian

Public Spa

I wish I could be in that fancy public spa with my cousin Marjan again. We were only fifteen years old.

It was the summer we visited the small town where my parents grew up and my ancestors died.

A small town in the center of Iran, like a little paradise. It was famous for its almond and pomegranate gardens. Fifteen was the age for me to just dream and think about the hidden facts of life. I was immersed in music and poetry, unlike my cousin who was a very realistic young girl.

One August day we packed a small bag with a set of clean clothes and our handmade white loung (a long skirt to wrap around your lower body), which were beautifully embroidered with flowers at the bottom. Marjan said they would give each of us fresh thin cotton towels at the spa. They would also provide us with a kisseh (loofah) and a special plant extract to wash our hair.

It was a beautiful day and we planned to be in the spa most of the day. On our way to the spa Marjan suggested we buy a few kilos of fresh peaches to eat while we were there. She noticed I was surprised by her suggestion and said, “I promise you it will be delicious!” I had to listen to her for two reasons. One, she knew the town better than me, and two, she was very clever so I could trust her.

We had to walk a long distance to get to the spa. I felt the dance of butterflies on my skin. I felt I was growing up faster than ever. The town that my ancestors lived in and helped build made me feel a deep belonging! The main street we were walking on had my family name. The early morning sun hid its pleasant warmth  in our skin. The only violence we knew about was the few roosters in our neighborhood who fighting over a few cute hens!

Finally, we entered the spa. Marjan introduced me to the lady on a beautiful sitting pillow and said, “She is my cousin. She does not live here. She is visiting us for the summer and it is her first time in the public spa.”  The lady showed us where to go and gave us each a fresh towel and loung.

We were told to get in and soak our bodies in the hot spa and wait for Zahra Khanoom, a spa worker. Marjan and I walked past more than 20 ladies, most of them completely naked and only a few partially covered. The experience of seeing naked women all in one place was new to me. We were watching ladies with different body shapes, Among them were a few kids and a few just-married, beautiful young girls, and some old women with their breasts hanging. 

Soon Zahra Khanoom came to us and started by exfoliating Marjan and then me with the kisseh and a special white ball of exfoliating soap called sefeedab, followed by a brief shoulder and neck massage. At the end, she shampooed our hair. Zahra Khanoom was full of interesting stories. She was keen to give us advice on the main topics in life, like getting married and handling men! She said men do not care about anything except sex and food. You give those two things to them when they need and you are covered!

But we were not interested in Zahra Khanoom,s lessons.  It was now time for us to relax and eat our peaches!

For days after, we talked and laughed about it. Marjan once said, “Do not worry about those fat, out of shape ladies. They are like that because their husbands do them every night even if they are tired. We will not be like them!” Now I am too far from that town and those faces. If only I could have one of those days back, I would hold onto it endlessly!

by; Mahnaz Badihian